On the Dress of Women

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Chapter 1

1.1Oehler 1:701–703

Si tanta in terris moraretur fides, quanta merces eius expectatur in caelis, nulla omnino vestrum, sorores dilectissimae, ex quo deum vivum cognovisset, et de sua, id est de feminae conditione didicisset, laetiorem habitum, ne dicam gloriosiorem appetisset, ut non magis in sordibus ageret, et squalorem potius affectaret, ipsam se circumferens Evam lugentem et paenitentem, quo plenius id quod de Eva trahit (ignominiam dico primi delicti et invidiam perditionis humanae) omni satisfactionis habitu expiaret. In doloribus et anxietatibus paris, mulier, et ad virum tuum conversio tua, et ille dominatur tui. Et Evam te esse nescis? Vivit sententia dei super sexum istum in hoc saeculo; vivat et reatus necesse est. Tu es diaboli ianua, tu es arboris illius resignatrix tu es divinae legis prima desertrix, tu es quae eum suasisti quem diabolus aggredi non valuit. Tu imaginem dei, hominem, tam facile elisisti. Propter tuum meritum, id est mortem, etiam filius dei mori habuit: et adornari tibi in mente est super pelliceas tuas tunicas? Age nunc, si ab initio rerum et Milesii oves tonderent, et Seres arbores nerent, et Tyrii tinguerent, et Phryges insuerent, et Babylonii intexerent, et margaritae canderent, et ceraunia coruscarent, si ipsum quoque aurum iam de terra cum cupiditate prodisset, si iam et speculo tantum mentiri liceret, et haec Eva concupiit de paradiso expulsa, iam mortua, opinor? Ergo nec nunc appetere debet aut nosse, si cupit reviviscere, quae nec habuerat nec noverat quando vivebat. Ideo omnia ista damnatae et mortuae mulieris impedimenta sunt, quasi ad pompam funeris constituta.

If there dwelt on earth a faith as great as the reward of faith that is expected in heaven, not one of you, dearest sisters, from the time she came to know the living God and learned of her own condition, that is, the condition of woman, would have sought a more cheerful dress, not to say a more glorious one; rather she would go about in mean attire and affect squalor, carrying herself about as Eve mourning and repenting, so as to expiate more fully, by every garb of penitence, what she derives from Eve: I mean the disgrace of the first sin and the odium of human ruin. “In pains and anxieties you bear children, woman; and your turning is to your husband, and he rules over you.” And do you not know that you are Eve? The sentence of God on this sex lives on in this age; the guilt must live on too. You are the devil's gateway; you are the unsealer of that tree; you are the first deserter of the divine law; you are she who persuaded him whom the devil was not strong enough to attack. You so easily crushed the image of God, man. Because of your desert, that is, death, even the Son of God had to die; and it is in your mind to adorn yourself over your tunics of skins? Come now: if from the beginning of things the Milesians had been shearing sheep, and the Seres spinning trees, and the Tyrians dyeing, and the Phrygians embroidering, and the Babylonians weaving, and pearls gleaming, and onyx-stones flashing; if gold itself had already come forth from the earth with covetousness; if the mirror too had already been allowed to lie so much: would Eve, expelled from paradise and already dead, have coveted these things, I suppose? So neither ought she now to seek or know, if she wishes to live again, what she neither had nor knew when she was alive. Therefore all these things are the trappings of a condemned and dead woman, arranged as if for the pomp of a funeral.

1.2Oehler 1:703–705

Nam et illi qui ea constituerunt damnati in poenam mortis deputantur, illi scilicet angeli qui ad filias hominum de caelo ruerunt, ut haec quoque ignominia feminae accedat. Nam cum et materias quasdam bene occultas et artes plerasque non bene revelatas saeculo multo magis imperito prodidissent, siquidem et metallorum opera nudaverant et herbarum ingenia traduxerant et incantationum vires provulgaverant et omnem curiositatem usque ad stellarum interpretationem designaverant, proprie et quasi peculiariter feminis instrumentum istud muliebris gloriae contulerunt, lumina lapillorum quibus monilia variantur, et circulos ex auro quibus brachia artantur, et medicamenta ex fuco quibus lanae colorantur, et illum ipsum nigrum pulverem quo oculorum exordia producuntur. Haec qualia sunt, interim iam ex doctorum suorum qualitate et conditione pronuntiari potest, quod nihil ad integritatem peccatores, nihil ad castitatem adamatores, nihil ad timorem dei desertores spiritus aut monstrare potuerunt aut praestare. Si doctrinae dicendae sunt, mali magistri male docuerint necesse est; si mercedes pro libidine, nullius rei turpis merces decora est. Quid autem tanti fuit ista monstrare sicut conferre? utrumne mulieres sine materiis splendoris et sine ingeniis decoris placere non possent hominibus, quae adhuc incultae et incompositae et, ut ita dixerim, crudae ac rudes angelos moverant? anne sordidi et per gratuitum usum contumeliosi amatores viderentur, si nihil feminis in connubium allectis contulissent? Sed haec non capit aestimare. Nihil plus desiderare poterant quae angelos possidebant, magno scilicet nupserant. Enimvero qui utique interdum cogitabant unde cecidissent et post libidinum vaporata momenta caelum suspirabant, illud ipsum bonum feminarum naturalis decoris, ut causam mali, sic remuneraverunt, ne eis profuisset felicitas sua, sed ut devectae de simplicitate et sinceritate una cum ipsis in offensam dei pervenirent. Certi erant omnem et gloriam et ambitionem et affectionem per carnem placendi deo displicere. Hi sunt nempe angeli quos iudicaturi sumus, hi sunt angeli quibus in lavacro renuntiamus, haec sunt utique per quae ab homine iudicari meruerunt. Quid ergo faciunt apud iudices suos res eorum? quod est commercium damnaturis cum damnandis? opinor, quod Christo et Beliae. Qua constantia tribunal illud ascendimus decreturi adversus eos quorum munera appetimus? Nam et vobis eadem tunc substantia angelica repromissa, idem sexus qui et viris, eandem iudicandi dignationem pollicetur. Nisi ergo hic iam praeiudicaverimus res eorum praedamnando quas in illis damnaturi sumus, illi potius nos iudicabunt atque damnabunt.

For those too who introduced these things are condemned and consigned to the penalty of death, namely those angels who rushed down from heaven to the daughters of men, so that this disgrace too might attach to woman. For when they had disclosed to an age far more ignorant certain materials that were well hidden and many arts not well revealed (for they had laid bare the workings of metals, had passed on the properties of herbs, had spread abroad the powers of incantations, and had pointed out every curious art down to the interpretation of the stars), properly and as a special gift they conferred on women this equipment of womanly glory: the lights of the little stones with which necklaces are varied, the bracelets of gold with which arms are clasped, the dyes of the orchil with which wool is colored, and that very black powder with which the lines of the eyes are lengthened. What sort these things are can be declared already from the quality and condition of their teachers: that sinners could show or supply nothing for integrity, lovers nothing for chastity, deserters of the spirit nothing for the fear of God. If they are to be called teachings, bad masters must have taught badly; if payment for lust, the payment for no base thing is seemly. But what was so important to show these things as to bestow them? Could women not please men without the materials of splendor and the devices of beauty, women who, still unadorned and unarranged and, so to speak, raw and crude, had moved angels? Or would the lovers have seemed mean and insulting in taking their pleasure free, if they had given nothing to the women drawn into union with them? But this is not for us to reckon. Those who possessed angels could desire nothing more; they had married grandly, of course! But those angels, who at times surely thought of where they had fallen from and, after the heated moments of their lusts, sighed for heaven, repaid that very good of women's natural beauty, as the cause of their evil, in such a way that their good fortune should not profit them, but that, led away from simplicity and sincerity, they should arrive together with the angels at the offense of God. They were sure that all glory, ambition, and desire to please by the flesh displeases God. These, surely, are the angels whom we are to judge; these are the angels whom we renounce in the washing; these are the very things through which they deserved to be judged by man. What then are their goods doing with their judges? What commerce have those who will condemn with those who are to be condemned? The same, I think, as Christ with Belial. With what consistency shall we mount that tribunal to pass sentence against those whose gifts we covet? For to you too the same angelic substance is promised then, the same sex as to men, and the same dignity of judging is pledged. Unless, then, we prejudge here and now their goods, condemning beforehand what we are to condemn in them, they will rather judge and condemn us.

1.3Oehler 1:705–706

Scio scripturam Enoch, quae hunc ordinem angelis dedit, non recipi a quibusdam, quia nec in armarium Iudaicum admittitur. Opinor, non putaverunt illam ante cataclysmum editam post eum casum orbis omnium rerum abolitorem salvam esse potuisse. Si ista ratio est, recordentur pronepotem ipsius Enoch fuisse superstitem cataclysmi Noë, qui utique domestico nomine et haereditaria traditione audierat et meminerat de proavi sui penes deum gratia et de omnibus praedicatis eius, cum Enoch filio suo Matusalae nihil aliud mandaverit, quam ut notitiam eorum posteris suis traderet. Igitur sine dubio potuit Noë in praedicationis delegatione successisse, vel quia et alias non tacuisset tam de dei conservatoris sui dispositione quam de ipsa domus suae gloria. Hoc si non tam expedite haberet, illud quoque assertionem scripturae illius tueretur. Proinde potuit abolefactam eam violentia cataclysmi in spiritu rursus reformare, quemadmodum et Hierosolymis Babylonia expugnatione deletis omne instrumentum Iudaicae litteraturae per Esdram constat restauratum. Sed cum Enoch eadem scriptura etiam de domino praedicarit, a nobis quidem nihil omnino reiciendum est quod pertineat ad nos. Et legimus omnem scripturam aedificationi habilem divinitus inspirari. A Iudaeis potest iam videri propterea reiecta, sicut et cetera fere quae Christum sonant. Nec utique mirum hoc, si scripturas aliquas non receperunt de eo locutas quem et ipsum coram loquentem non erant recepturi. Eo accedit, quod Enoch apud Iudam apostolum testimonium possidet.

I know that the scripture of Enoch, which has given this order to the angels, is not received by some, because it is not admitted into the Jewish canon either. They did not think, I suppose, that a book published before the flood could have survived safe after that disaster of the world, which abolished all things. If that is the reason, let them remember that Noah, who survived the flood, was the great-grandson of Enoch himself, and had surely heard and remembered, by family name and hereditary tradition, about his great-grandfather's grace with God and all his preaching, since Enoch charged his son Methuselah with nothing else than to hand on knowledge of these things to his descendants. So without doubt Noah could have succeeded to the trust of the preaching, or at any rate would not have kept silent about the dispensation of God his preserver, nor about the glory of his own house. Even if he did not have this so readily, there is another thing that would defend the claim of that scripture: he could have formed it anew in the Spirit after it had been destroyed by the violence of the flood, just as, when Jerusalem was destroyed by the Babylonian conquest, it is agreed that every document of Jewish literature was restored through Ezra. But since Enoch in the same scripture preached also about the Lord, nothing at all that concerns us is to be rejected by us. And we read that every scripture fit for edification is divinely inspired. By the Jews it may now seem to have been rejected for that very reason, like almost everything else that speaks of Christ. Nor is this surprising, if they did not receive some scriptures that spoke of him whom they were not going to receive even when he spoke in their presence. Add to this that Enoch has a testimony in the apostle Jude.

1.4Oehler 1:706

Nulla nunc muliebri pompae nota inusta sit praedamnationis de exitu auctorum. Nihil angelis illis imputetur praeter repudium caeli et matrimonium carnis: rerum ipsarum qualitates examinemus, ut consilia quoque concupiscentiae earum deprehendamus. Habitus feminae duplicem speciem circumfert, cultum et ornatum. Cultum dicimus quem mundum muliebrem vocant, ornatum, quem immundum muliebrem convenit dici. Ille in auro et argento et gemmis et vestibus deputatur, iste in cura capilli et cutis et earum partium corporis quae oculos trahunt. Alteri ambitionis crimen intendimus, alteri prostitutionis: ut iam hinc prospicias, dei ancilla, quid ex his disciplinae tuae conveniat, quae de diversis institutis censearis, scilicet humilitatis et castitatis.

Let no mark of prior condemnation, derived from the fate of its authors, now be branded on women's finery. Let nothing be charged to those angels except their repudiation of heaven and their marriage of flesh: let us examine the qualities of the things themselves, so that we may detect also the purposes of the desire for them. A woman's appearance involves two kinds: dress and adornment. By dress we mean what they call “womanly finery”; by adornment what it is fitting to call “womanly unfinery.” The one is reckoned in gold and silver and gems and clothes; the other in the care of the hair and skin and of those parts of the body that attract the eyes. Against the one we bring the charge of ambition, against the other that of prostitution; so that already from this you may see, handmaid of God, which of these suits your discipline, since you are rated by different principles, namely those of humility and chastity.

1.5Oehler 1:706–707

Aurum et argentum principes materiae cultus saecularis id sint necesse est unde sunt, terra scilicet, plane gloriosior, quoniam in maledictorum metallorum feralibus officinis poenali opera deplorata nomen terrae in igni reliquit, atque exinde de tormentis in ornamenta, de suppliciis in delicias, de ignominiis in honores metalli refuga mutatur. Sed et ferri et aeris et aliarum vilissimarum materiarum par conditio est, et terreni generis et metallici operis, quo nihilo generosior iudicari possit auri et argenti substantia penes naturam. Quod si de qualitate usus gloria est auro et argento, atquin magis ferro et aeri, quorum ita disposita est utensilitas, ut et proprias operas plures et necessariores exhibeant rebus humanis et nihilominus auri et argenti de suo vicem accommodent iustioribus causis. Nam et annuli ferro fiunt, quaedam esui et potui vascula ex aere adhuc servat memoria antiquitatis. Viderit, si etiam ad spurca instrumentis auri et argenti demens copia deservit. Certe nec ager auri opere paratur, nec navis argenti vigore contexitur. Nullum bidens aurum demergit in terram, nullus clavus argentum intimat tabulis. Taceo totius vitae necessitates ferro et aere innixas, cum ipsae illae divites materiae, et de metallis refodiendae et in quocunque usu procudendae, sine ferri et aeris operario vigore non possint. Iam igitur aestimandum est, unde obveniat tanta dignitas auro et argento, cum et consanguineis, quantum ad genus, et potioribus, quantum ad utensilitatem, materiis praeferantur.

Gold and silver, the chief materials of worldly dress, must be the same as that from which they come, namely earth; plainly more glorious earth, since, wept over with penal labor in the deadly workshops of accursed mines, it has left the name of earth in the fire, and thereafter the fugitive metal is changed from torments into ornaments, from punishments into delights, from disgraces into honors. But iron and bronze and other the cheapest materials have an equal condition, being of earthly kind and the work of mines, so that the substance of gold and silver can be judged no nobler in nature. But if gold and silver have glory from the quality of their use, iron and bronze have more, whose usefulness is so arranged that they both render more and more necessary services of their own to human affairs and nonetheless supply, on their own, the place of gold and silver for juster causes. For rings are made of iron, and the memory of antiquity still preserves certain small vessels of bronze for eating and drinking. Let it see to it if a mad abundance of gold and silver serves even filthy uses with its vessels. Certainly no field is prepared by the work of gold, nor is a ship put together by the strength of silver. No mattock sinks gold into the earth, no nail drives silver into planks. I say nothing of the necessities of all life resting on iron and bronze, when those rich materials themselves, both to be dug out of the mines and to be forged for any use, cannot do without the working strength of iron and bronze. We must now reckon, then, where such dignity comes to gold and silver, when they are preferred to materials both akin to them in kind and more powerful in usefulness.

1.6Oehler 1:707–709

Sed et lapillos istos, qui cum auro superbiam iungunt, quid aliud interpreter, nisi lapillos et calculos et eiusdem terrae minutalia, nec tamen aut fundamentis demandandis aut parietibus moliendis aut fastigiis sustinendis aut tectis densandis necessaria? Solum hunc mulierum stuporem aedificare noverunt, quia tarde teruntur ut niteant, et subdole substruuntur ut floreant, et anxie forantur ut pendeant, et auro lenocinium mutuum praestant. Sed si quid de mari Britannico aut Indico ambitio piscatur, conchae genus est, non dico conchylio aut ostreo, sed nec peloride gratius de sapore. Ad hoc enim conchas noverim maris poma. Quod si concha illa aliquid intrinsecus pustulat, vitium magis eius debet esse quam gloria. Et licet margaritum vocetur, tamen aliud intellegendum quam conchae illius aliqua dura et rotunda verruca. Aiunt et de frontibus draconum gemmas erui, sicut et in piscium cerebris lapidositas quaedam est. Hoc quoque deerat Christianae, ut de serpente cultior fiat. Sic calcabit diaboli caput, dum de capite eius cervicibus suis aut ipsi capiti ornamenta struit?

And these little stones too, which join their pride with gold, what else shall I call them but pebbles and stones and fragments of the same earth, yet not necessary for laying foundations or building walls or supporting gables or thickening roofs? The only thing they know how to build is this stupidity of women, since they are slowly rubbed to make them shine, cunningly set to make them bloom, anxiously bored to make them hang, and they lend gold a mutual allurement. But if ambition fishes anything from the British or Indian sea, it is a kind of shellfish, not, I say, pleasanter in taste than the purple-fish or the oyster, nor even than the giant mussel. For I know shellfish as fruits of the sea for this purpose. But if that shell pushes out a pimple inside, that ought to be its defect rather than its glory. And though it be called a pearl, it must be understood as nothing other than some hard, round wart of that shell. They say too that gems are dug from the foreheads of dragons, just as there is a certain stoniness in the brains of fish. This too the Christian woman lacked, to be made more elegant by a serpent! Is this how she will tread on the devil's head, while she builds ornaments from his head for her neck or for her very head?

1.7Oehler 1:709–710

Haec omnia de raritate et peregrinitate sola gratiam possident. Denique intra terminos suos patrios non tanti habentur. Semper abundantia contumeliosa in semetipsam est. Apud barbaros quosdam, quia vernaculum est aurum et copiosum, auro vinctos in ergastulis habent, et divitiis malos onerant, tanto locupletiores, quanto nocentiores. Aliquando revera inventum est, quomodo et aurum non ametur. Gemmarum quoque nobilitatem vidimus Romae de fastidio Parthorum et Medorum ceterorumque gentilium suorum coram matronis erubescentem, nisi quod nec ad ostentationem fere habentur. Latent in cingulis smaragdi, et cylindros vaginae suae solus gladius sub sinu novit, et in peronibus uniones emergere de luto cupiunt. Nihil denique tam gemmatum habent, quam quod gemmatum esse non debet, si non comparet, aut ideo comparet, ut neglectum quoque ostendatur.

All these things have their charm only from rarity and foreignness. Indeed within their native borders they are not held in such esteem. Abundance is always insulting to itself. Among certain barbarians, because gold is native and plentiful, they keep men bound with gold in their workhouses, and load criminals with riches, the richer the guiltier. At last a way has really been found for gold not to be loved! We have also seen the nobility of gems at Rome blushing before the matrons at the disdain of the Parthians and Medes and the rest of their countrymen, except that they hardly wear them even for display. Emeralds lie hidden in their belts, and only the sword under the cloak knows the cylinders of its scabbard, and pearls on their boots long to emerge from the mud. In short, they have nothing so jeweled as what ought not to be jeweled, since it either does not show, or shows only so that it may be seen to be despised.

1.8Oehler 1:710–712

Perinde et vestium de coloribus honorem servi etiam eorum terunt. Sed et parietes Tyriis et hyacinthinis et illis regiis velis, quae vos operose resoluta transfiguratis, pro pictura abutuntur. Vilior est apud illos purpura quam rubrica. Quis enim est vestium honor iustus de adulterio colorum iniustorum? Non placet deo quod non ipse produxit. Nisi si non potuit purpureas et aerinas oves nasci iubere. Si potuit, ergo iam noluit; quod deus noluit, utique non licet fingi. Non ergo natura optima sunt ista quae a deo non sunt, auctore naturae. Sic a diabolo esse intelleguntur, ab interpolatore naturae. Alterius enim esse non possunt, si dei non sunt, quia aemuli sint necesse est, quae dei non sunt. Alius autem praeter diabolum et angelos eius aemulus dei non est. Ceterum si materiae ex deo sunt, non statim et huiusmodi fructus illarum in hominibus. Quaeritur et unde sint conchae, et qua dispositione decorent, et ubi speciem suam collocent. Nam et omnes istae profanae spectaculorum saecularium voluptates, sicut de illis suum volumen edidimus, ipsa etiam idololatria ex rebus dei constat. Non tamen ideo circi furoribus aut arenae atrocitatibus aut scenae turpitudinibus Christianum affici oportet, et quod et equum et pantheram et vocem homini deus dedit, sicut nec ideo idololatrian impune faciat Christianus, quia dei conditio est et tus et merum et ignis qui vescitur, et animalia quae victimae fiunt, cum et ipsa materia quae adoratur dei sit. Sic ergo et circa actum materiarum census a deo descendens propterea excusat, ut deo extraneum, ut reum scilicet gloriae saecularis?

In the same way, even their slaves wear out the honor of colored garments. Even walls are misused for painting with Tyrian and violet and those royal hangings which you laboriously unravel and transform. Among them purple is cheaper than red ochre. For what just honor is there in garments from the adultery of unjust colors? What God did not himself produce does not please him. Unless he could not order sheep to be born purple and sky-blue! If he could, then he did not will it; what God did not will surely must not be fashioned. So these things are not best by nature, since they are not from God, the author of nature. Thus they are understood to be from the devil, the corrupter of nature. For they cannot belong to another if they are not God's, since what is not God's must be a rival's. And there is no other rival of God except the devil and his angels. For the rest, if the materials are from God, it does not at once follow that such uses of them among men are too. One asks also where the shellfish come from, in what arrangement they adorn, and where they place their beauty. For all those profane pleasures of worldly spectacles too, as we have published a volume on them, and even idolatry itself, consist of things of God. Yet a Christian ought not on that account to be affected by the frenzies of the circus or the atrocities of the arena or the obscenities of the stage, because God gave the horse and the panther and the voice to man; just as a Christian may not commit idolatry with impunity because incense and wine and the fire that feeds on them, and the animals that become victims, are God's creation, since even the very material that is worshiped is God's. So then, in the use of materials, does their origin, coming down from God, excuse it, as if it were not foreign to God, that is, not guilty of worldly vainglory?

1.9Oehler 1:712–713

Nam ut quaedam rerum per singulas quasque terras et unamquamque regionem maris a deo distributa sunt invicem sibi peregrina, apud exteros mutuo rara, apud suos iure, si utique, vel negleguntur vel appetuntur, quia non tantus est in illis gloriae fervor, inter domesticos frigidae. Sed enim ex possessionum distributione, quam deus ut voluit ordinavit, raritas et peregrinitas apud extraneos semper gratiam inveniens de simplici causa non habendi quae deus alibi collocavit concupiscentiam concitat habendi. Ex hac vitium aliud extenditur, immoderate habendi. Quod etsi forte habendum sit, modus tamen debetur. Haec erit ambitio, unde et nomen eius interpretandum est, quod concupiscentia apud animum ambiente nascatur ad gloriae votum, grande scilicet votum, quod, ut diximus, non natura, nec veritas, sed vitiosa animi passio concupiscentia commendavit. Et alia vitia ambitionis et gloriae. Sic et pretia rebus inflammavit, ut se quoque accenderet. Nam tanto maior fit concupiscentia, quanto magno fecit quod concupivit. De brevissimis loculis patrimonium grande profertur. Uno lino decies sestertium inseritur. Saltus et insulas tenera cervix circumfert. Graciles aurium cutes kalendarium expendunt, et sinistra per singulos digitos de saccis singulis ludit. Hae sunt vires ambitionis, tantarum substantiarum usuram uno et muliebri corpusculo baiulare.

For as certain things have been distributed by God through the various lands and each region of the sea, foreign to one another, rare to outsiders in turn, while among their own people they are rightly either neglected or sought, if at all, because there is no such heat of vainglory for them among those at home, for whom they are cold: so, from the distribution of possessions which God has ordered as he willed, rarity and foreignness, always finding favor among outsiders, stir up, from the simple cause of not having what God placed elsewhere, the desire of having. From this another vice spreads, that of having immoderately. Even if something must perhaps be had, yet a measure is due. This will be ambition, from which its very name is to be interpreted, because desire is born in a mind that goes round about (ambiens) toward the wish for glory; a great wish, of course, which, as we have said, not nature nor truth but desire, a vicious passion of the mind, has commended. And there are other vices of ambition and vainglory. So it has inflamed the prices of things, so as to set itself on fire as well. For desire grows greater the more it has made great what it desires. A great patrimony is brought out of the tiniest little box. A million sesterces is strung on a single thread. A tender neck carries round forests and islands. The thin lobes of the ears spend a ledger of loans, and the left hand plays away a sack of money on each finger. These are the strengths of ambition: to carry on one small woman's body the use of such great fortunes.

Chapter 2

2.1Oehler 1:714–716

Ancillae dei vivi, conservae et sorores meae, quo iure deputor vobiscum, postremissimus equidem eo iure conservitii et fraternitatis, audeo ad vos facere sermonem, non utique affectionis, sed affectioni procurans in causa vestrae salutis. Ea salus, nec feminarum modo, sed etiam virorum, in exhibitione praecipue pudicitiae est. Nam cum omnes templum dei simus, inlato in nos et consecrato spiritu sancto eius templi aeditua et antistita pudicitia est, quae nihil inmundum nec profanum inferri sinat, ne deus ille qui inhabitat inquinatam sedem offensus derelinquat. Sed modo nos non de pudicitia, cui indicendae et exigendae sufficiunt instantia ubique divina praecepta, verum de pertinentibus ad eam, id est qualiter vos incedere oporteat. Pleraeque enim (quod ipsum mihi utique reprehendendo in omnibus reprehendere deus permittat) aut ignorantes simpliciter aut dissimulantes audaciter ita ingrediuntur, quasi pudicitia in sola carnis integritate et stupri aversatione consistat, nec quicquam et extrinsecus opus sit, de cultus dico et ornatus dispositione, studiis formae et nitoris, eandem superficiem incessu circumferentes quam feminae nationum, a quibus abest conscientia verae pudicitiae, quia nihil verum in his qui deum nesciunt praesidem et magistrum veritatis. Nam et si qua in gentilibus pudicitia credi potest, usque adeo imperfectam et inconditam constat, ut, licet in animo aliquatenus tenax sui agat, in habitus tamen licentias sese dissolvat, pro perversitate gentilium appetendo cuius rei devitat effectum. Quota denique est quae ne placere quidem extraneis concupiscat? quae non vel idcirco se expingi curet, et neget appetitam? Quanquam et hoc gentili pudicitiae familiare sit, non delinquere, attamen velle, vel etiam nolle, attamen non denegare. Quid mirum? perversa sunt omnia quae dei non sunt. Viderint igitur quae non totum bonum obtinendo facile et quod obtinent malo commiscent. Vos ab eis, ut in ceteris, incessu quoque divertere necessarium est, quoniam perfectae esse debetis, sicut pater vester qui est in caelis.

Handmaids of the living God, my fellow servants and sisters, by the right by which I am reckoned with you, I, the very last in that right of fellow servanthood and brotherhood, dare to address a word to you, not indeed of affection, but caring for affection in the cause of your salvation. That salvation, not of women only but also of men, lies above all in the display of chastity. For since we are all the temple of God, the Holy Spirit having been brought into us and consecrated there, chastity is the sacristan and priestess of that temple, who must allow nothing unclean or profane to be brought in, lest the God who dwells there be offended and forsake a defiled abode. But now we are speaking not of chastity itself, for the enjoining and exacting of which the divine precepts, pressing everywhere, suffice, but of what pertains to it, that is, how you ought to walk abroad. For very many women (and may God permit me, who certainly reprove this in myself, to reprove it in all) either simply ignorant or boldly pretending, go about as if chastity consisted only in the integrity of the flesh and the shunning of sexual immorality, and nothing outward were needed as well, I mean in the arrangement of dress and adornment, the pursuit of beauty and elegance; carrying about in their walk the same surface as the women of the nations, who lack the consciousness of true chastity, because there is nothing true in those who do not know God, the ruler and teacher of truth. For even if any chastity can be believed to exist among the gentiles, it is agreed to be so imperfect and undisciplined that, though it keeps some hold on itself in the mind, it nevertheless dissolves into license in dress, in the perversity of the gentiles seeking that whose effect it avoids. How few there are who do not desire even to please strangers! Who do not take care to be painted for that very reason, and deny that they are sought after! Although this too is familiar to gentile chastity: not to sin, yet to wish to; or even to be unwilling, yet not to refuse. What wonder? All things are perverse that are not God's. Let them see to it, then, who, not holding the whole good, easily mix even what they hold with evil. You must turn away from them in your walk too, as in other things, since you ought to be perfect, as your Father who is in heaven.

2.2Oehler 1:716–718

Perfectae, id est Christianae pudicitiae, appetitionem sui non tantum non appetendam, sed etiam exsecrandam vobis sciatis. Primo, quod non de integra conscientia venit studium placendi per decorem, quem naturaliter invitatorem libidinis scimus. Quid igitur excitas in te malum istud? quid invitas cuius te profiteris extraneam? Tum, quod temptationibus viam aperire non debemus, quae nonnunquam quod deus a suis abigat instando perficiunt, certe vel spiritum scandalo permovent. Debemus quidem ita sancte et tota fidei substantia incedere, ut confisae et securae simus de conscientia nostra, optantes perseverare id in nobis, non tamen praesumentes. Nam qui praesumit, minus veretur, qui minus veretur, minus praecavet, qui minus praecavet, plus periclitatur. Timor fundamentum salutis est, praesumptio impedimentum timoris. Utilius ergo, si speremus nos posse delinquere, quam si praesumamus non posse. Sperando enim timebimus, timendo cavebimus, cavendo salvi erimus: contra si praesumamus, neque timendo neque praecavendo salvi erimus. Qui securus agit, non et sollicitus, non possidet tutam et firmam securitatem. At qui sollicitus est, is vere poterit esse securus. Et de suis quidem servis dominus misericordia sua curet, ut etiam praesumere illis de bono suo feliciter liceat. Quid autem alteri periculo sumus? quid alteri concupiscentiam importamus? quam si deus non ampliando legem facto stupri concupiscentiam non discernat in poena, nescio an impune habeat qui alicui causa fuerit perditionis. Perit enim ille, simul in tuam formam concupierit, et admisit iam in animo quod concupivit, et facta es tu gladius illi, ut, etsi a culpa vaces, ab invidia non libereris. Ut, cum in alicuius agro latrocinium gestum est, crimen quidem dominum non continget, dum rus tamen ignominia notatur, ipse quoque infamia aspergitur. Expingamus nos, ut alteri pereant? Ubi ergo est, Diliges proximum tuum sicuti te ipsum? Nolite vestra tantum curare, sed alterius? Nulla enuntiatio spiritus sancti ad praesentem tantum materiam, et non ad omnem utilitatis occasionem dirigi et suscipi debet. Cum igitur et nostra et aliorum causa versetur in studio periculosissimi decoris, iam non tantum confictae et elaboratae pulchritudinis suggestum recusandum a vobis sciatis, sed etiam naturalis speciositatis oblitterandum dissimulatione et incuria, ut perinde oculorum incursibus molestum. Nam etsi accusandus decor non est, ut felicitas corporis, ut divinae plasticae accessio, ut animae aliqua vestis bona, timendus est tamen vel propter iniuriam et violentiam sectatorum, quam etiam pater fidei Abraham in uxoris suae specie pertimuit, et Isaac sororem ementitus Rebeccam salutem contumelia redemit.

Know that, for perfect chastity, that is, Christian chastity, being desired is not only not to be sought by you but is even to be abhorred. First, because the eagerness to please by beauty does not come from a sound conscience, since we know beauty is by nature an inviter of lust. Why then do you stir up that evil in yourself? Why do you invite that to which you profess yourself a stranger? Second, because we ought not to open the way to temptations, which by pressing sometimes accomplish what God drives away from his own, or at least disturb the spirit with a stumbling block. We ought indeed to walk so holily and with the whole substance of faith as to be confident and secure about our conscience, praying that this may persevere in us, yet not presuming it. For one who presumes fears less; one who fears less takes less care; one who takes less care is in more danger. Fear is the foundation of salvation; presumption is a hindrance to fear. It is more useful, then, to expect that we can sin than to presume that we cannot. For by expecting we will fear, by fearing we will be on guard, by being on guard we will be saved; on the contrary, if we presume, neither fearing nor taking care, we will not be saved. One who acts securely, and not also anxiously, does not possess a safe and firm security. But one who is anxious can truly be secure. And may the Lord in his mercy take care of his servants, so that they may even happily presume on his goodness. But why should we be a danger to another? Why do we bring desire upon another? If God, enlarging the law, does not distinguish that desire in punishment from the act of sexual immorality, I do not know whether one who has been the cause of another's ruin goes unpunished. For he perishes as soon as he has desired your beauty, and has already committed in his mind what he desired; and you have become a sword to him, so that, even if you are free of guilt, you are not free of odium. As when a robbery has been committed on someone's land, the crime does not touch the owner, yet while the estate is marked with disgrace, he himself too is spattered with infamy. Shall we paint ourselves so that another may perish? Where then is “You shall love your neighbor as yourself”? “Do not care only for your own things, but for another's”? No saying of the Holy Spirit ought to be directed to and taken up for the present matter only, and not for every occasion of usefulness. Since, then, both our own cause and that of others is at stake in the pursuit of this most dangerous beauty, know that you must not only refuse the display of feigned and elaborated beauty, but must even obliterate natural comeliness by concealment and neglect, as being equally troublesome to the glances of the eyes. For although beauty is not to be accused, being a blessing of the body, an addition of the divine molding, a kind of good garment of the soul, yet it is to be feared, if only because of the injury and violence of its pursuers, which even Abraham, the father of faith, greatly feared on account of his wife's beauty; and Isaac, falsely calling Rebekah his sister, redeemed his safety with an insult.

2.3Oehler 1:718–719

Nunc non sit timenda dignitas formae, ut nec possidentibus gravis, nec appetentibus exitiosa, nec coniunctis periculosa, non exposita temptationibus, non circumdata scandalis existimetur: sufficit, quod angelis dei non est necessaria. Nam ubi pudicitia, ibi vacua pulchritudo, quia proprie usus et fructus pulchritudinis luxuria, nisi si quis aliam messem decori corporis arbitratur. Illae sibi formositatem et datam extendant et non datam requirant, quae quod ab illa flagitatur sibi quoque praestare se putant, cum alteri praestant? Dicet aliquis, Quid ergo non et exclusa luxuria et admissa castitate laude formae sola frui et de bono corporis gloriari licet? Viderit, quem iuvat de carne gloriari. Nobis autem primo quidem nullum gloriae studium est, quia gloria exaltationis ingenium est. Porro exaltatio non congruit professoribus humilitatis ex praescriptis dei. Dehinc si omnis gloria vana et stuporata, quanto magis quae in carne, nobis duntaxat? Nam etsi gloriandum est, in spiritus bonis, non in carne placere velle debemus, quia spiritalium sectatores sumus. Quibus operamur, illis gaudeamus. De his gloriam carpamus, de quibus salutem speramus. Plane gloriabitur Christianus etiam in carne, sed cum propter Christum lacerata duraverit, ut spiritus in ea coronetur, non ut oculos et suspiria adulescentium post se trahat. Ita quod ex omni parte in vobis vacat, merito et non habentes fastidiatis et habentes neglegatis. Sanctae feminae, si naturaliter speciosae, non adeo sit occasio. Certe si et fuerit, non adiuvare, sed etiam impedire debet.

Suppose now that the dignity of beauty is not to be feared, so that it is thought neither burdensome to those who have it, nor fatal to those who desire it, nor dangerous to their partners, not exposed to temptations, not surrounded by stumbling blocks: it is enough that it is not necessary to the angels of God. For where there is chastity, there beauty is idle, since the proper use and fruit of beauty is wantonness, unless someone thinks there is another harvest for the body's comeliness. Should those women extend the beauty they have been given and seek what they have not been given, who think that what is demanded of it they supply to themselves too when they supply it to another? Someone will say: “Why then, with wantonness excluded and chastity admitted, may one not enjoy the praise of beauty alone and glory in the good of the body?” Let whoever likes to glory in the flesh see to that. For us, first, there is no pursuit of glory, since glory is the nature of exaltation. And exaltation does not befit those who profess humility by God's precepts. Next, if all glory is vain and senseless, how much more that in the flesh, for us at least? For even if we must glory, we ought to wish to please in the goods of the spirit, not in the flesh, because we are followers of spiritual things. In what we work for, let us rejoice. Let us gather glory from those things from which we hope for salvation. Certainly a Christian will glory even in the flesh, but when it has endured being torn for Christ's sake, so that the spirit may be crowned in it, not so that it may draw after itself the eyes and sighs of young men. So what is in every respect idle in you, you may rightly both disdain if you do not have it and neglect if you do. Let a holy woman, if naturally beautiful, not give occasion to it. Certainly, if it exists, she ought not to promote it, but even to impede it.

2.4Oehler 1:719–720

Quasi gentilibus dicam, gentili et communi omnium praecepto alloquens vos, solis maritis vestris placere debetis. In tantum autem placebitis eis, in quantum aliis placere non curaveritis. Securae estote, benedictae: uxor nulla deformis est marito suo. Satis placuit, cum electa est, seu forma, seu moribus commendata. Ne qua vestrum putet, si temperaverit a compositione sui, odium et aversionem maritorum prosecuturam. Omnis maritus castitatis exactor est, formam vero fidelis quidem non expostulat, quia non isdem bonis quae gentiles bona putant capimur: infidelis contra etiam suspectam habet, vel ex illa scelerata in nos opinione gentilium. Cui ergo pulchritudinem tuam nutris? Si fideli, non exigit, si infideli, nisi simplicem non credit. Quid gestis aut suspecto aut non desideranti placere?

As if speaking to gentiles, addressing you with a gentile precept common to all, I say: you ought to please your husbands only. And you will please them the more, the less you care to please others. Be secure, blessed ones: no wife is ugly to her own husband. She pleased enough when she was chosen, whether recommended by beauty or by character. Let none of you think that if she refrains from making herself up she will meet with her husband's hatred and aversion. Every husband demands chastity; beauty, however, a believing husband does not require, because we are not captivated by the same goods that gentiles think good; while an unbelieving husband even holds it suspect, if only from that wicked opinion of the gentiles about us. For whom, then, do you cultivate your beauty? If for a believer, he does not demand it; if for an unbeliever, he does not believe it unless it is simple. Why are you eager to please one who suspects it or one who does not want it?

2.5Oehler 1:720–721

Haec utique non in crudam in totum et ferinam habitudinem insinuanda vobis suggeruntur nec de bono squaloris et paedoris suademus, sed de modo et cardine et iustitia corporis excolendi. Non supergrediendum ultra quam simplices et sufficientes munditiae concupiscunt, ultra quam deo placet. In illum enim delinquunt quae cutem medicaminibus urgent, genas rubore maculant, oculos fuligine porrigunt. Displicet nimirum illis plastica dei, in ipsis se nimirum arguunt, reprehendunt artificem omnium. Reprehendunt enim, cum emendant, cum adiciunt, utique ab adversario artifice sumentes additamenta ista. Is est diabolus. Nam quis corpus mutare monstraret, nisi qui et spiritum hominis malitia transfiguravit? Ille indubitate eiusmodi ingenia concinnavit, ut in vobis pareat manus vos quodammodo deo afferre. Quod nascitur, opus dei est. Ergo quod infingitur, diaboli negotium est. Divino operi satanae ingenia superducere quam scelestum est! Servi nostri ab inimicis nostris nihil mutuantur, milites ab hostibus imperatoris sui nihil concupiscunt. De adversario enim eius in cuius manu sis aliquid usui postulare transgressio est. Christianus a malo illo adiuvabitur in aliquo? Nescio an hoc nomen ei perseveret. Erit enim eius de cuius doctrinis instrui concupiscit. Quam autem a vestris disciplinis et professionibus aliena sunt, quam indigna nomini Christiano faciem fictam gestare, quibus simplicitas omnis indicitur? effigie mentiri, quibus in lingua non licet? appetere quod tuum non sit, quibus alieni abstinentia traditur? adulterium in specie exercere, quibus studium pudicitiae sit! Credite, benedictae, quomodo praecepta dei custodietis, lineamenta eius in vobis non custodientes?

These things are not suggested to you so as to press you into an altogether crude and wild appearance, nor are we urging the good of squalor and filth, but a measure, a limit, and a justice in the care of the body. One must not go beyond what simple and sufficient neatness desires, beyond what pleases God. For those women sin against him who torment their skin with ointments, stain their cheeks with rouge, and lengthen their eyes with soot. Evidently God's molding displeases them; evidently they convict themselves in their own persons and find fault with the Maker of all. For they find fault when they amend, when they add, taking these additions, of course, from the rival maker. That is the devil. For who would teach how to change the body but he who transfigured the spirit of man with malice? Without doubt he devised such contrivances, so that in you his hand might appear to be laid, in a way, on God. What is born is the work of God. So what is painted on is the business of the devil. How wicked to lay the contrivances of Satan over a divine work! Our slaves borrow nothing from our enemies; soldiers covet nothing from their emperor's foes. For to ask for anything to use from the adversary of him in whose hand you are is transgression. Shall a Christian be helped in anything by that evil one? I do not know whether this name will remain to her. For she will belong to him from whose teachings she desires to be instructed. And how foreign to your disciplines and professions, how unworthy of the Christian name, to wear a feigned face, you on whom all simplicity is enjoined! To lie in your appearance, you to whom lying with the tongue is not permitted! To seek what is not yours, you who are taught to abstain from what is another's! To practice adultery in your looks, you whose pursuit is chastity! Believe me, blessed ones, how will you keep the precepts of God if you do not keep his features in yourselves?

2.6Oehler 1:721–723

Video quasdam capillum croco vertere. Pudet eas etiam nationis suae, quod non Germaniae atque Galliae sint procreatae, ita iam capillos transferunt. Male ac pessime sibi auspicantur flammeo capite, et decorum putant quod inquinant. Atquin et detrimentum crinibus medicaminum vis inurit, et cerebro perniciem etiam cuiuslibet sinceri humoris assiduitas reservat, tum solis animando simul et siccando capillo exoptabilis ardor nocet. Quis decor cum iniuria? quae cum inmunditiis pulchritudo? Crocum capiti suo mulier Christiana ingeret ut in aram? Quodcunque enim immundo spiritui excremari solet, id nisi probis et necessariis et salutaribus usibus adhibetur, ad quod dei creatura prospecta est, sacrificium videri potest. Sed enim deus ait, Quis vestrum potest capillum album atrum facere, aut album ex atro? Itaque revincunt dominum. Ecce, inquiunt, pro albo vel atro flavum facimus, gratia faciliorem. Quamvis et atrum ex albo conantur, quas paeniteat ad senectam usque vixisse. Pro temeritas! Erubescit aetas exoptata votis, furtum conficitur, adulescentia, in qua deliquimus, suspiratur, occasio gravitatis interpolatur. Absit a sapientiae filiabus stultitia tanta. Senectus cum plus occultari studuerit, plus detegetur. Haec est aeternitas vera de capilli iuventute. Hanc incorruptibilitatem habemus superinduere ad novam domum domini, quam monarchia pollicetur. Bene properatis ad dominum, bene festinatis excedere de isto iniquissimo saeculo, quibus ad finem propinquare deforme est.

I see some women turn their hair with saffron. They are even ashamed of their own nation, that they were not born in Germany and Gaul; so they transfer their hair there! They give themselves an ill, a very ill omen with their flame-colored heads, and think that beautiful which they defile. Indeed the force of the dyes burns damage into the hair, and the constant use of any moisture, however pure, stores up harm for the brain; then the heat of the sun, so much desired for enlivening and drying the hair at once, does injury. What beauty is there with injury? What loveliness with filth? Shall a Christian woman heap saffron on her head as on an altar? For whatever is customarily burned to an unclean spirit, unless it is applied to honest, necessary, and wholesome uses, for which God's creature was provided, can seem a sacrifice. But God says: “Which of you can make a white hair black, or a black one white?” So they refute the Lord! “See,” they say, “instead of white or black we make it yellow, more pleasing in grace.” Though they also try to make it black from white, women who regret having lived to old age. O rashness! The age longed for in prayers is blushed at; a theft is carried out; youth, in which we sinned, is sighed for; the occasion for gravity is spoiled. Far from the daughters of wisdom be such folly! The more old age tries to be hidden, the more it will be exposed. This is the true eternity, from the youth of the hair! This is the incorruptibility we are to put on for the new house of the Lord, which the divine monarchy promises! You hasten well to the Lord, you hurry well to depart from this most wicked age, to whom it is unsightly to draw near the end!

2.7Oehler 1:723–725

Quid item tanta ordinandi crinis operositas ad salutem subministrat? Quid crinibus vestris quiescere non licet, modo substrictis, modo relaxatis, modo suscitatis, modo elisis? Aliae gestiunt in cincinnos coercere, aliae ut vagi et volucres elabantur, non bona simplicitate. Affigitis praeterea nescio quas enormitates subtilium atque textilium capillamentorum, nunc in galeri modum quasi vaginam capitis et operculum verticis, nunc in cervicem retro suggestum. Mirum, quod non contra dominica praescripta contenditur. Ad mensuram neminem sibi adicere posse pronuntiatum est. Vos vero adicitis ad pondus colluras quasdam vel scuti umbilicos cervicibus adstruendos. Si non pudet enormitatis, pudeat inquinamenti, ne exuvias alieni capitis forsan immundi, forsan nocentis et gehennae destinati, sancto et Christiano capiti supparetis. Immo omnem hanc ornatus servitutem a libero capite depellite. Frustra laboratis ornatae videri, frustra peritissimos quosque structores capillaturae adhibetis. Deus vos velari iubet. Credo, ne quarundam capita videantur. Atque utinam miserrimus ego in illa die Christianae exultationis vel infra calcanea vestra caput elevem! videbo, an cum cerussa et purpurisso et croco et in illo ambitu capitis resurgatis; an taliter expictas angeli in nubila sublevent obviam Christo in aere. Si nunc bona et dei sunt, tunc quoque occurrent resurgentibus corporibus et sua loca agnoscent. Sed non potest resurgere, nisi caro et spiritus solus ac purus. Damnatum est igitur quod in spiritu et carne non resurgit, quia dei non est. Damnatis hodie abstinete. Hodie vos tales deus videat, quales tunc videbit.

And what does so much labor in arranging the hair contribute to salvation? Why is your hair not allowed to rest, now bound up, now loosened, now raised, now flattened? Some are eager to confine it in curls, others to let it slip away loose and flying, not with a good simplicity. You fasten on besides I know not what enormities of fine, woven wigs, now like a helmet, as a sheath for the head and a lid for the crown, now as a platform at the back of the neck. It is a wonder that there is no contest against the Lord's precepts! It has been declared that no one can add to his stature. But you add to your weight certain rolls, or bosses like shields, to be piled on your necks. If you are not ashamed of the enormity, be ashamed of the defilement, lest you fit onto a holy and Christian head the spoils of another's head, perhaps unclean, perhaps guilty and destined for Gehenna. Rather drive all this slavery of adornment from your free head. In vain do you labor to seem adorned, in vain do you employ the most skilled builders of hair. God commands you to be veiled. I believe it is so that the heads of some women may not be seen! And would that I, most wretched as I am, might on that day of Christian exultation lift my head even beneath your heels! I shall see whether you will rise with white lead and rouge and saffron and in that round of the head; whether angels will carry you, so painted, up into the clouds to meet Christ in the air. If these things are good now and of God, then too they will meet the rising bodies and recognize their places. But nothing can rise except flesh and spirit, alone and pure. What does not rise in spirit and flesh, then, is condemned, because it is not of God. Abstain today from what is condemned. Let God see you today as he will see you then.

2.8Oehler 1:725–726

Videlicet nunc vir ut sexu aemulus feminas a suis depello. An et nobis quaedam respectu obeundae gravitatis propter metum debitum deo detrahuntur? Siquidem et viris propter feminas, ut feminis propter viros, vitio naturae ingenita est placendi voluntas, propriasque praestigias formae et hic sexus sibi agnoscit, barbam acrius caedere, intervellere, circumradere, capillum disponere, et decolorare canitiem, primam quamque subducere totius corporis lanuginem, pigmento quoque muliebri distringere, cetera pulveris cuiusdam aspritudine laevigare, tum speculum omni occasione consulere, anxie inspicere, cum tamen cognito deo adempta placendi voluntate per luxuriae occasionem omnia illa ut otiosa, ut hostilia pudicitiae recusantur. Nam ubi deus, ibi pudicitia, ibi gravitas adiutrix et socia eius. Quo ergo pacto pudicitiam sine instrumento suo, id est sine gravitate tractabimus? Quomodo autem gravitatem administrandae pudicitiae adhibebimus, nisi et in facie et in cultu et in totius hominis contemplatione severitas circumferatur?

No doubt I, a man, jealous as a rival of your sex, am now driving women away from their own things! Are there not things that are taken from us men too, out of regard for maintaining gravity, because of the fear owed to God? For men too, for the sake of women, as women for the sake of men, have an inborn wish to please, by a fault of nature; and this sex also recognizes its own tricks of beauty: to cut the beard too sharply, to pluck it here and there, to shave round it, to arrange the hair and dye out the gray, to remove all the first down of the whole body, to touch it up with women's pigment, to smooth the rest with the roughness of some powder, then to consult the mirror on every occasion and gaze anxiously; whereas, once God is known and the wish to please through the occasion of wantonness is taken away, all these things are rejected as idle, as hostile to chastity. For where God is, there is chastity, and there is gravity, its helper and companion. How then shall we practice chastity without its instrument, that is, without gravity? And how shall we apply gravity to maintaining chastity unless severity is carried about in the face, in dress, and in the look of the whole person?

2.9Oehler 1:726–728

Quamobrem erga vestitum quoque et reliqua compositionis vestrae impedimenta perinde vobis curanda est amputatio et decussio redundantioris nitoris. Nam quid prodest faciem quidem frugi et expeditam et simplicitatem condignam divinae disciplinae exhibere, cetera vero corporis laciniosis pomparum et delitiarum ineptiis occupare? Hae pompae quam de proximo curent luxuriae negotium et obstrepant pudicitiae disciplinis dinoscere in facile est, quod gratiam decoris cultus societate prostituant: adeo, si desinant, inritam et ingratam reddunt, velut exarmatam et naufragam. Contra si forma deficit, adminiculum nitoris quasi de suo gratiam supplet. Aetates denique requietas iam et in portum modestiae subductas splendor et dignitas cultus avocant et severitatem appetitionibus inquietant, compensantibus scilicet habitus inritamenta pro frigore aetatis. Ergo, benedictae, primo quidem ut lenones et prostitutores vestitus et cultus ne in vos admiseritis, tum, si quas divitiarum vel natalium vel retro dignitatum ratio compellit ita pompaticas progredi, ut sapientiam non videantur consecutae, temperare malum huiusmodi curate, ne totis habenis licentiam usurpetis praetextu necessitatis. Quomodo etenim humilitatem, quam nostri profitentur, implere poteritis, non repastinantes divitiarum vestrarum vel elegantiarum usum, quae tantum ad gloriam faciunt? Gloria autem exaltare, non humiliare consuevit. Non enim quaesitis utemur nostris? Quis autem prohibet uti? Secundum apostolum tamen, qui nos uti monet mundo isto, quasi non abutamur. Praeterit enim habitus mundi huius. Et qui emunt, sic agant, quasi non possidentes. Cur ita? Quoniam praemiserat, dicens, Tempus in collecto est. Si ergo uxores quoque ipsas sic habendas demonstrat, tanquam non habeantur, propter angustias temporum, quid sentiat de vanis his instrumentis earum? Non enim et multi ita faciunt, et se spadonatui obsignant propter regnum dei, tam fortem et utique permissam voluptatem sponte ponentes? Numquid non aliqui ipsam dei creaturam sibi interdicunt, abstinentes vino et animalibus esculentis, quorum fructus nulli periculo aut sollicitudini adiacent, sed humilitatem animae suae in victus quoque castigatione deo immolant. Satis igitur et vos usae estis divitiis atque deliciis, satis dotum vestrarum fructus decidistis ante notitiam salutarium disciplinarum. Nos sumus, in quos decurrerunt fines saeculorum. Nos destinati a deo ante mundum in extimatione temporali. Itaque castigando et castrando, ut ita dixerim, saecule erudimur a deo. Nos sumus circumcisio omnium spiritalis et carnalis. Nam et in spiritu et carne saecularia circumcidimus.

Therefore with regard to clothing too, and the other encumbrances of your toilet, you must likewise take care to cut off and shake off excessive elegance. For what does it profit to show a face that is frugal and plain and a simplicity worthy of divine discipline, while occupying the rest of the body with the frilly absurdities of pomp and luxury? How closely these pomps attend to the business of wantonness and clash with the disciplines of chastity is easy to see, since they prostitute the charm of beauty by the partnership of dress: so much so that, if they are absent, they leave it ineffective and unattractive, as if disarmed and shipwrecked. On the other hand, if beauty is lacking, the support of elegance supplies charm as if from its own. Indeed ages already at rest and drawn up into the harbor of modesty are called away by the splendor and dignity of dress, and their severity is unsettled by desires, the incitements of dress compensating, of course, for the coldness of age. So, blessed ones, first, do not admit into your lives the procurers and pimps of clothing and dress; then, if the demands of wealth, or birth, or former rank compel some of you to go out so pompously as not to seem to have attained wisdom, take care to temper an evil of this kind, lest under the pretext of necessity you seize license with the reins let go altogether. For how will you be able to fulfill the humility which our people profess, if you do not prune back the use of your riches and elegances, which serve only for vainglory? And vainglory is accustomed to exalt, not to humble. “Shall we not use what is ours?” Who forbids you to use it? Yet according to the apostle, who warns us to use this world as if not abusing it. “For the form of this world is passing away.” “And let those who buy act as though they did not possess.” Why so? Because he had said beforehand: “The time is short.” If, then, he shows that even wives themselves are to be had as if they were not had, because of the straits of the times, what would he think of these empty accessories of theirs? Do not many act so, and seal themselves to eunuchhood for the sake of the kingdom of God, laying aside of their own will so strong and certainly permitted a pleasure? Do not some forbid themselves God's very creation, abstaining from wine and meats, whose enjoyment involves no danger or anxiety, but sacrificing to God the humility of their soul in the chastening of their food too? You have used riches and delights enough, then; you have plucked the fruits of your dowries enough, before you knew the saving disciplines. We are those on whom the ends of the ages have come. We were destined by God before the world, in the reckoning of time. So we are trained by God by chastening and, so to speak, castrating the world. We are the circumcision of all things, spiritual and fleshly. For in both spirit and flesh we circumcise worldly things.

2.10Oehler 1:728–730

Nimirum enim deus demonstravit sucis herbarum et concharum salivis incoquere lanas. Exciderat illi, cum universa nasci iuberet, purpureas et coccineas oves mandare. Deus et ipsarum vestium officinas commentus, quae leves et exiles solo pretio graves essent, deus et auri tanta opera produxit, complectendis et distinguendis lapillis, scrupulosa deus et auribus vulnera intulit, et tanti habuit vexationem operis sui et cruciatus infantiae innocentis tunc primum dolentis, ut ex illis ad ferrum nati corporis cicatricibus grana nescio quae penderent, quae plane Parthi peronibus quoque suis bullarum vice inserunt. Quamquam et aurum ipsum, cuius vos gloria occupat, cuidam genti ad vincula servire referunt gentilium litterae. Adeo non veritate bona sunt, sed raritate; artibus autem per angelos peccatores, qui et ipsas materias prodiderunt, inductis operositas cum raritate commissa pretiositatem et ex ea libidinem possidendae pretiositatis feminarum excitavit. Quod si iidem angeli qui et materias eiusmodi et inlecebras detexerunt, auri dico et lapidum inlustrium, et operas eorum tradiderunt, et iam ipsum calliblepharum vellerumque tincturas inter cetera docuerunt, damnati a deo sunt, ut Enoch refert, quomodo placebimus deo, gaudentes rebus illorum qui iram et animadversionem dei propterea provocaverunt? Nunc ut ista prospexerit deus, deus permiserit, nullam de conchylio vestem Esaias increpet, nullum botronatum retundat, nullas lunulas reprobet, tamen non ut gentiles, ita nos quoque nobis adolemur, institutorem solummodo deum existimantes, non etiam despectorem institutorum suorum. Quanto enim utilius et cautius egerimus, si praesumamus omnia quidem a deo provisa tunc et in saeculo posita, uti nunc essent in quibus disciplina servorum eius probaretur, ut per licentiam utendi continentiae experimenta procederent? Nonne sapientes patresfamiliae de industria quaedam servis suis offerunt atque permittunt, ut experiantur, an et qualiter permissis utantur, si probe, si moderate? Quanto autem laudabilior qui abstinuerit in totum, qui timuerit etiam indulgentiam domini? Sic igitur et apostolus, Omnia, inquit, licent, sed non omnia expediunt. Quanto facilius inlicita timebit qui licita verebitur?

No doubt God showed how to boil wool in the juices of herbs and the slime of shellfish! It had slipped his mind, when he commanded all things to be born, to order purple and scarlet sheep! God devised the workshops of those very garments which, light and thin, are heavy only in price; God produced such great works of gold for clasping and setting little stones; God inflicted painstaking wounds on the ears, and thought so much of tormenting his own work and the torture of innocent infancy, then first feeling pain, that from those scars of a body born for the steel certain grains should hang, which the Parthians, indeed, set even in their boots in place of studs! And yet even gold itself, whose glory possesses you, serves one nation for chains, as the gentiles' writings report. So they are good not in truth but in rarity; and the labor brought in by the arts through the sinful angels, who also disclosed the materials themselves, joined to rarity, has excited costliness, and from it the lust of women to possess costliness. But if the same angels who disclosed both such materials and their allurements, I mean of gold and brilliant stones, and handed on the work on them, and taught among other things even eye-paint and the dyeing of fleeces, were condemned by God, as Enoch relates, how shall we please God rejoicing in the things of those who for this reason provoked God's wrath and punishment? Now, granting that God foresaw these things, that God permitted them, that Isaiah finds fault with no purple garment, crushes no cluster-shaped ornament, rejects no little crescents, still we must not, like the gentiles, flatter ourselves, thinking God only the establisher of things and not also the one who looks down on how they are used. For how much more usefully and cautiously we shall act if we presume that all things were indeed provided by God and placed in the world then, so that there might now be things in which the discipline of his servants is tested, so that through the license to use them trials of continence might go forward. Do not wise heads of households deliberately offer and permit certain things to their slaves, to test whether and how they use what is permitted, whether honestly, whether moderately? And how much more praiseworthy is the one who abstains entirely, who fears even his master's indulgence! So, then, the apostle too says: “All things are lawful, but not all things are expedient.” How much more easily will one fear unlawful things who stands in awe of lawful ones?

2.11Oehler 1:730–731

Quae autem vobis causae extructius prodeundi, cum remotae sitis ab his quae talium indigent. Nam nec templa circumitis, nec spectacula postulatis, nec festos dies gentium nostis. Propter istos enim conventus et multum videre ac videri omnes pompae in publicum proferuntur, aut ut luxuria negotietur aut gloria insolescat. Vobis autem nulla procedendi causa non tetrica. Aut inbecillus aliqui ex fratribus visitatur, aut sacrificium offertur, aut dei sermo administratur. Quidvis horum gravitatis et sanctitatis negotium est, cui opus non sit habitu extraordinario, et composito et soluto. Ac si necessitas amicitiarum officiorumque gentilium vos vocat, cur non vestris armis indutae procedatis, tanto magis, quanto ad extraneas fidei? ut sit inter dei ancillas et diaboli discrimen, ut exemplo sitis illis, ut aedificentur in vobis, ut, quomodo ait apostolus, magnificetur deus in corpore vestro. Magnificatur autem in corpore per pudicitiam, utique et per habitum pudicitiae competentem. Sed enim a quibusdam dicitur, ne blasphemetur nomen in nobis, si quid de pristino habitu et cultu detrahamus. Non auferamus ergo vitia pristina: simus et moribus iisdem, si et superficie eadem, et tunc vere non blasphemabunt nationes. Grandis blasphemia est ex qua dicatur: Ex quo facta est Christiana, pauperius incedit. Timebis pauperior videri, ex quo locupletior facta es, et sordidior, ex quo mundior? Secundum gentilium, an secundum dei placitum incedere Christianos oportet?

And what reasons have you for going out more elaborately dressed, since you are removed from the occasions that need such things? For you neither go round the temples, nor ask for spectacles, nor know the festival days of the gentiles. It is for these gatherings, and for much seeing and being seen, that all pomps are brought out in public, either so that wantonness may do business or vainglory grow insolent. But you have no reason for going out that is not grave. Either some sick one among the brothers is visited, or the sacrifice is offered, or the word of God is ministered. Any of these is a business of gravity and holiness, for which there is no need of extraordinary dress, whether studied or loose. And if the necessity of friendships and duties toward gentiles calls you, why not go out clothed in your own arms, all the more so because you go to those who are strangers to the faith? So that there may be a distinction between the handmaids of God and of the devil, so that you may be an example to them, so that they may be edified in you, so that, as the apostle says, God may be magnified in your body. And he is magnified in the body through chastity, and surely also through dress befitting chastity. But some say: “Lest the name be blasphemed in us, if we take away anything from our former dress and finery.” Let us not remove our former vices, then! Let us keep the same morals too, if the same surface, and then truly the nations will not blaspheme! It is a great blasphemy when it is said: “Since she became a Christian, she goes about more poorly.” Will you fear to seem poorer since you have become richer, and dirtier since you have become cleaner? Ought Christians to walk according to the gentiles' pleasure or according to God's?

2.12Oehler 1:731–732

Optemus tantummodo ne iustae blasphemationis causa simus. Quanto autem magis blasphemabile est, si, quae sacerdotes pudicitiae dicimini, impudicarum ritu procedatis cultae et expictae? Aut quid minus habeant infelicissimae illae publicarum libidinum victimae? quas etsi quae leges a maritalibus et matronalibus decoramentis coercebant, iam certe saeculi improbitas quotidie insurgens honestissimis quibusque feminis usque ad errorem dinoscendi coaequavit. Quamquam lenocinia formae nunquam non prostituto corpori coniuncta et debita etiam scripturae suggerunt. Illa civitas valida, quae super montes septem et plurimas aquas praesidet, prostitutae appellationem a domino meruit. Sed quali habitu appellationi suae comparata est? Sedet certe in purpura et coccino et auro et lapide pretioso. Quam maledicta sunt sine quibus non potuit maledicta et prostituta describi! Thamar illa, quia se expinxerat et ornaverat, idcirco Iudae suspicione visa est sedere, adeoque sub velamento latebat, habitus qualitate quaestuariam mentiente, ut quaestuariam et voluerit et compellarit et pactus sit. Unde addiscimus adversus congressus et suspiciones impudicas providendum omni modo esse. Quid enim castae mentis integritas alterius suspicione maculatur? quid speratur in me quod aversor? quid non meos mores habitus praenuntiat, ne spiritus per aures ab impudentia vulneretur? Liceat videri pudicam, certe impudicam non licet.

Let us only wish that we may not be the cause of just blasphemy. And how much more deserving of blasphemy is it if you, who are called priestesses of chastity, go out dressed and painted in the manner of the unchaste? Or what do those most unhappy victims of public lust have less? Even if some laws once kept them from the ornaments of wives and matrons, now at any rate the wickedness of the age, rising daily, has made them equal to all the most honorable women, to the point of confusing them. Yet the allurements of beauty, always joined to and due to the prostituted body, are suggested even by the Scriptures. That mighty city which presides over seven mountains and very many waters has earned from the Lord the name of prostitute. But in what dress has she been matched to her name? She sits, certainly, in purple and scarlet and gold and precious stone. How accursed are the things without which she could not be described as accursed and a prostitute! That Tamar, because she had painted and adorned herself, was taken by Judah on suspicion for one who sat for hire; and so hidden was she under her veil, the character of her dress falsely proclaiming a harlot, that he both wanted her as a harlot, and addressed her, and made a bargain. From this we learn that we must provide in every way against unchaste encounters and suspicions. For why should the integrity of a chaste mind be stained by another's suspicion? Why should something be hoped for in me that I abhor? Why should my dress not announce my morals, so that my spirit may not be wounded through my ears by shamelessness? It may be allowed to seem chaste; to seem unchaste certainly is not.

2.13Oehler 1:732–735

Aliqua fors dicet, Non est mihi necessarium hominibus probari: nec enim testimonium hominum requiro; deus conspector est cordis. Scimus omnes, dum tamen quid idem per apostolum dixerit recordemur: Probum vestrum coram hominibus appareat. Ad quid, nisi ut malitia accessum ad vos omnino non habeat, vel ut malis exemplo et testimonio sitis? Aut quid est, Luceant operae vestrae? Quid autem nos dominus lucem mundi vocat? quid civitati super montem constitutae comparavit, si non relucemus in tenebris et extamus inter demersos? Si lucernam tuam sub modio abstruseris, in tenebris derelicta a multis incurseris necesse est. Haec sunt quae nos luminaria mundi faciunt, bona scilicet nostra. Bonum autem, dumtaxat verum et plenum, non amat tenebras; gaudet videri et in ipsas denotationes exultat. Pudicitiae Christianae satis non est esse, verum et videri. Tanta enim debet esse plenitudo eius, ut emanet ab animo ad habitum et eructet a conscientia in superficiem, ut et a foris inspiciat quasi supellectilem suam, quae conveniat fidei continendae in perpetuum. Discutiendae sunt enim deliciae quarum mollitia et fluxu fidei virtus effeminari potest. Ceterum nescio an manus spatalio circumdari solita in duritiam catenae stupescere sustineat. Nescio an crus periscelio laetatum in nervum se patiatur artari. Timeo cervicem, ne margaritarum et smaragdorum laqueis occupata locum spathae non det. Quare, benedictae, meditemur duriora, et non sentiemus: relinquamus laetiora, et non desiderabimus. Stemus expeditae ad omnem vim, nihil habentes quod relinquere timeamus. Retinacula ista sunt spei nostrae. Proiciamus ornamenta terrena, si caelestia optamus. Ne dilexeritis aurum, in quo omnia delicta populi Israel denotantur. Odisse debetis quod patres perdidit, quod a relinquentibus deum adoratum est. Etiam tunc aurum ignis est esca. Ceterum tempora Christianis semper, et nunc vel maxime, non auro, sed ferro transiguntur: stolae martyriorum praeparantur, angeli baiuli sustinentur. Prodite vos iam medicamentis et ornamentis exstructae prophetarum et apostolorum, sumentes de simplicitate candorem, de pudicitia ruborem, depictae oculos verecundia et os taciturnitate, inserentes in aures sermones dei, adnectentes cervicibus iugum Christi. Caput maritis subicite, et satis ornatae eritis. Manus lanis occupate, pedes domi figite, et plus quam in auro placebitis. Vestite vos serico probitatis, byssino sanctitatis, purpura pudicitiae. Taliter pigmentatae deum habebitis amatorem.

Perhaps someone will say: “It is not necessary for me to be approved by people; for I do not seek the testimony of people; God is the observer of the heart.” We all know it; provided, however, that we remember what the same God said through the apostle: “Let your uprightness appear before men.” For what purpose, except that malice may have no access to you at all, or that you may be an example and a testimony to the wicked? Or what is “Let your works shine”? Why does the Lord call us the light of the world? Why did he compare us to a city set on a mountain, if we do not shine in the darkness and stand out among those sunk down? If you hide your lamp under a bushel, left in darkness you must be run into by many. These are what make us luminaries of the world, namely our good deeds. And good, at least true and full good, does not love darkness; it rejoices to be seen and exults even at being pointed out. For Christian chastity it is not enough to be; it must also be seen. For its fullness ought to be so great that it flows out from the mind to the dress and bursts out from the conscience onto the surface, so that from outside too it may look upon, as it were, its own furniture, fit for keeping the faith forever. For those luxuries must be shaken off by whose softness and looseness the strength of faith can be made effeminate. Besides, I do not know whether the hand accustomed to be encircled with a bracelet will endure to grow numb in the hardness of a chain. I do not know whether the leg that has delighted in an anklet will let itself be squeezed into the stocks. I fear for the neck, lest, taken up with nooses of pearls and emeralds, it give no room to the sword. So, blessed ones, let us meditate on harder things, and we shall not feel them; let us give up the more pleasant things, and we shall not miss them. Let us stand ready for any violence, having nothing we fear to leave behind. These things are the fetters of our hope. Let us cast away earthly ornaments if we desire heavenly ones. Do not love gold, in which all the sins of the people of Israel are branded. You ought to hate what ruined the fathers, what was worshiped by those who forsook God. Even then gold was food for fire. For the rest, the times for Christians are always, and now more than ever, passed not in gold but in iron: the robes of martyrdom are being prepared, the angels who are to carry us are waiting. Go forth now, made up with the cosmetics and ornaments of the prophets and apostles, taking whiteness from simplicity, blush from chastity, your eyes painted with modesty and your mouth with silence, hanging in your ears the words of God, fastening on your necks the yoke of Christ. Submit your head to your husbands, and you will be adorned enough. Busy your hands with wool, fix your feet at home, and you will please more than in gold. Clothe yourselves with the silk of uprightness, the fine linen of holiness, the purple of chastity. So painted, you will have God as your lover.